Esthetician vs Dermatologist for Acne

There’s no other way to say it - I hate acne. While my acne has never been cystic or severe, I’ve dealt with recurrences on and off since I was a teenager (I’m 31 now). My skin is dry and sensitive, so whatever acne I do get typically scabs up and turns into scars, which has definitely not helped my self-esteem. My mom has always advocated for taking care of your skin, so she’s helped me see estheticians and dermatologists for professional guidance and access to medical-grade skincare. I now finally have my skin under control and it’s never looked better, but because I know not everyone can see both, I wanted to break the pros/ cons and share my experiences in the hopes of helping you choose the right professional to help you on your acne journey.

esthetician vs dermatologist for acne

I’m going to break down the benefits and downsides for each type of professional, but before I do, I just want to note that these aren’t hard lines. There’s always an exception to the rule, so while you may find a dermatologist that focuses on products and lifestyle factors over medication or an esthetician who suggests prescription medication over in-studio treatments, that’s not necessarily the standard approach.

esthetician

Estheticians are licensed skincare specialists that focus on improving the appearance and health of the skin through non-medical treatments. They may perform laser therapy and chemical peels, but also specialize in facials, extractions, skincare, and product consultations.

pros

  • Ideal for mild to moderate acne, congestion, and post-acne scars/ texture

  • More accessible; doesn’t require insurance

  • Specializes in treatments like facials, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and extractions

  • Can provide regular maintenance appointments

cons

  • Not a medical professional; cannot diagnose or prescribe medication

  • Not ideal for cystic acne

  • Can be expensive

  • Can be too focused on in-office treatments rather than at-home products and lifestyle factors

One tip: Stalk their social media for before-and-after photos, and see what products they recommend. I’ve found the more transparent the esthetician is on social media (sharing the regimen that helped transform their client’s skin), the better experience I’ve had with them.

dermatologist 

Dermatologist are a medical doctors. They specialize in diagnosing and treating conditions related to the skin, hair, and nails. Not limited to just acne, they’re also able to prescribe medications, perform procedures, and treat both cosmetic concerns and serious skin issues like eczema, psoriasis, and skin cancer.

pros

  • Medical doctor; can diagnose, treat, and prescribe medication

  • Ideal for severe or cystic acne

  • Offers clinical-grade treatments, like oral medications, steroid injections, and laser therapy

  • Can perform biopsies if needed

  • Can treat scarring at a deeper level

cons

  • Expensive and may require insurance

  • Not as focused on product choices

  • More focused on medical treatments than lifestyle factors

  • Harder to get appointments, especially depending on insurance and patient load

One tip: check OpenPayments Data to know if your dermatologist is being paid by certain drug reps; it’s not a bad thing, but helps you know if they might have a bias or reason for pushing you towards one specific product line. 

esthetician vs dermatologist for acne before and after

what’s better for treating acne - an esthetician or dermatologist? 

In my personal experience, I’ve had much better results working with an esthetician to clear my acne than a dermatologist.

While dermatologists have more schooling and can prescribe stronger medications, they tend to specialize in more severe skin issues or acne. My dermatologists were more focused on checking for skin cancer (which is valid) but felt like my acne wasn’t “bad enough” for them to treat. I get it - they’ve seen worse, but the acne I was dealing with was still bad enough to negatively impact my life. I did not need Accutane, but I felt like the hassle of using insurance/ paying out of pocket just to be told “it’ll heal in time” wasn’t worth it. 

That being said, if you do have severe acne (whether it’s cystic or just painful), over-the-counter regimens haven’t worked, and think you’d be a candidate for Accutane, I recommend seeing a dermatologist.  

I personally suffered from mild yet stubborn acne that wouldn’t heal, so I benefitted more from an esthetician. Esthetician are also able to address texture issues and pigmentation left behind from the healed acne, so this was a better approach for me and what I recommend if your acne is mild to moderate.

I definitely had to see a few, but I knew I finally found a good esthetician when she was more concerned with my at-home products than in-office treatments. It may seem counter-intuitive, but your at-home regimen is something you do 365 days a year; the treatments done 1-6x a year won’t be as effective or reach their maximum results if your home care isn’t up to par.

Another note: skincare can be really expensive, but high cost doesn’t equate to higher results. A good esthetician knows a variety of products at a variety of price points, and will work with you to find the proper regimen for your budget. Yes, there’s a $96 face wash that would really benefit my dry skin, but my esthetician pointed me towards a better priced $40 option that helps me afford a full product regimen without breaking the budget every few months.

Dealing with acne is brutal and can be debilitating, but I promise it gets better. Whether you meet with an esthetician or dermatologist, I hope that my experience and this guide helps you choose the path that is best for you.